African American Hair After Chemo: How to Make African American Hair Grow After Chemo

It’s no secret that African American hair after chemo looks a little different. Sometimes finer. Sometimes curlier. There are cases when it doesn’t come back at all. When it does, it tends to grow back slower. Black women going through cancer treatment tell us losing their hair is one of the hardest parts. And unfortunately, it’s part of the journey. A 2018 systematic review found that roughly 65% of chemotherapy patients experience significant hair loss - more than 80% for some drugs.1 We’re going to share ways to minimize the damage and show you how to make African American hair grow after chemo. You’ll also discover ways you can cope with the fallout if your hair doesn’t grow back, including wigs. Rennora Beauty is here to guide you through every step of this battle with the best hair products for African American chemo patients. Learn all about African American hair growth after chemo below and prepare for what’s to come. Key Takeaways As many as 80% of chemotherapy patients will experience hair loss.1 Scalp cooling has long been referred to as the best prevention method for chemo-induced hair loss, but it may not be effective for black patients.2 The good news is 98% of patients eventually regrow their hair.3 African American hair growth after chemo may occur around 3 months from your last treatment. Post-chemo hair may have a different texture or color. The best hair products for African American chemo patients are gentle, botanical formulas like those from Rennora Beauty. Some Background on Afro Hair Types Most black women have Type 3 (curly) or Type 4 (coily/kinky) hair. There are actually subtypes within these types (4A, 4B, etc.). But the common theme is your hair is different from Asian or Caucasian hair. The texture can be traced back to the shape of your hair follicles. They’re elliptical or flat, which pushes out strands with tight curl patterns. On the other hand, white and Asian people have rounder hair follicles so their hair comes out straighter. Your curls are beautiful. You’ve been told that your entire life. But they also come with some baggage. The tighter the curl, the drier the strand - and the more fragile your hair is. Type 4C is the tightest curl pattern and the most vulnerable to breakage. The African American Hair Growth Rate We get asked all the time, how fast does African American hair grow? Probably not as quickly as you’d like it to. Studies show that 0.8cm per month is a normal African American hair growth rate - 35% slower than Caucasian hair and about 40% slower than Asian hair.4 To make matters worse, your hair is more prone to breakage than other types. So you can grow 4 inches a year and not show it. Retention is just as important as growth, after all. Unique Challenges That Come With Caring For Black Hair Tight braids, weaves, extensions, relaxers, heat tools - all of this stuff is normal to us. But it takes a toll on our hair, stressing follicles that were already working harder than other types of hair. We’re only bringing this up to speak to the challenge of seeing healthy African American hair growth after chemo. We read a piece of commentary from a 2023 entry in the journal Cancer, which noted Black women may have higher baseline rates of alopecia going into treatment.5 Dr. Crystal Aguh, Director of John Hopkins’ Ethnic Skin Program, says hair loss “seriously impacts self-esteem and quality of life” for her patients. Black women in particular struggle with this issue. Their hair is part of what makes them who they are. That being said, what are some of the common changes to African American hair after chemo? Common Changes to African American Hair After Chemo The good news is your hair should come back once you’re in the clear from treatment. 90% of breast cancer patients in a multicenter survey eventually regrew their hair (mean time from the last chemo session to visible regrowth = 3.3 months).3 The bad news is it may not look like it used to. We’re not saying you will absolutely experience these changes to African American hair after chemo. But, you should be prepared for them: Thinner, finer strands that almost feel like baby hair Strands come in curlier or wavier than before - AKA “chemo curls. Half of patients experience this Color changes - sometimes lighter, sometimes grey, sometimes a totally different shade Slower growth rates than prior to beginning chemotherapy Dry, brittle texture for the first few months after treatment We’re not saying this to add more stress to the battle you’re fighting right now. We want to be very clear - hair is the least of your worries. Beating this disease is all we care about you doing. And, for what it’s worth, all of these changes to African American hair after chemo can be addressed through things like styling changes, color treatments, and hair growth remedies. Minimizing the Loss of African American Hair During Chemotherapy Not every chemotherapy patient will experience the same level of hair loss. There are plenty of cases of women making it through their entire treatment unscathed, with a full head of hair. That’s of course the exception, not the norm. Your oncology team will do a better job of setting expectations for how at risk you are of hair loss and exactly how hard it will hit you. That being said, there are things you can do to minimize the risk of hair loss from chemo. Scalp Cooling Let’s start with what most people turn to as soon as they find out they’re going through chemotherapy: scalp cooling. These cold caps constrict blood vessels during infusion, so less of the chemo drug reaches hair follicles. There’s no doubt about it, scalp cooling can work. Around 50% of patients who try scalp cooling are able to keep enough of their hair that they don’t need a wig.6 The question is whether or not it will work for you. Unfortunately, studies done back in 2021 found that the results for black women in particular are not encouraging. In fact, the study on Black breast cancer patients was closed early due to poor efficacy.2 Only one of the 15 participants preserved her hair. The researchers were able to draw conclusions from the short-lived study, though. Types 3 and 4 hair have different hair thickness and volume. The cooling cap design just isn’t made for your hair type. Does this mean you shouldn’t bother asking your oncologist about scalp cooling? Not at all. Just that you should go in with some skepticism. Hair Growth Serums One of the main culprits behind chemo-induced hair loss is a lack of blood flow to the scalp - which is ultimately caused by a prolonged inflammatory response. Your follicles don’t get the nutrients they need, and they eventually die off and enter the resting period permanently. You can reawaken them, or keep them awake in the first place, by feeding your scalp a well-formulated hair growth serum. Bhringraj and Saw Palmetto reawaken dormant follicles. Castor Oil and Stinging Nettle support a better inflammatory response. These are just a handful of the 39+ ingredients in Rennora Beauty’s hair growth serum, which was specifically made for women of color - by women of color. Of course, you must clear any product you add to your regimen with your oncologist. But we’re proud to be known as your one-stop shop for the best hair products for African American chemo patients, so you should be able to incorporate our serum and vitamins without issue. Don’t just take our word for it, either. We talked to a woman who went through chemotherapy and turned to our serum for support. Here’s what she had to say: “My dermatologist suggested that I start using Rennora. I have bald spots in the front of my head from chemotherapy. My hair is also thinning from my recent heart transplant and all the medications I’m on. It’s a constant battle to regrow my hair. I’m grateful to God for everything because I’m still here. These drops plus stimulating my scalp have definitely helped me to see regrowth. It’s a slow journey but it’s working. My scalp in the front was bald and now you see some little growth activity. I’m excited!!!!” - Jonelle Other Hair Growth Remedies Nutrition is so important during chemotherapy and when it comes to healthy hair growth. It makes sense that it’s even more important when you’re trying to encourage healthy hair growth while going through treatment. The tricky part is that the nausea from chemo can make it hard to eat enough of the foods you need. So, consider getting the most essential nutrients through a targeted hair growth vitamin like Rennora’s Good Growth Capsules. Then there’s the simple stuff. Avoid causing more damage to your hair - no tight styles or aggressive heat treatments. Protect fragile strands by sleeping on a satin pillowcase (or sleep in a bonnet). Should You Just Shave Your Head and Embrace It? Every woman who embarks on chemo reaches a crossroad - should I try to fight it, or should I just shave my head and worry about one less thing? This is a very personal decision, one we cannot make for you. Dr. Janine Pettiford, a surgical breast oncologist at Northside Hospital in Atlanta, tells her patients: “It's only temporary. In the bigger scheme of things, chemo is helping to control your disease.” Finding the Right Wig Should you choose to shave your head, you don’t necessarily have to walk around completely bald. You can rock a wig and put your personality on display! There’s a lot to think about here, including whether to go with human hair or a synthetic wig. Human hair gives you more flexibility when it comes to styling. But don’t assume quality wigs look tacky. They’ve honestly come a really long way over the years. Whatever you go with, the wig should mimic black hair texture. A lace front looks natural. We recommend a wig that matches your natural curl pattern so the transition feels less jarring and you get fewer questions. You might be able to get financial assistance with your wig, too. Ask your care team about wig banks and nonprofit programs. For example, the American Cancer Society's “Look Good Feel Better” program provides free resources. Some insurance plans cover wigs when prescribed as a “cranial prosthesis.” Protecting Your Scalp From the Sun You should be aware of just how harsh the sun can feel on a bald head. You’ve probably never spent time outside bald before, after all! Wear a hat, wrap, or scarf outdoors to protect your head. Or, soak up the sun with a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher. The last thing you want is a sunburn on your scalp. This will only make African American hair growth after chemo a slower process as it can cause lasting damage. What If I Have Weaves, Hair Extensions, and/or Braids? We encourage you to pull these out before your treatment begins. Having been there personally, we can tell you firsthand that the tugging required to take our braids and weaves is uncomfortable enough on a healthy scalp - way worse on a chemo-sensitive one. Plus, extensions are going to cause more harm than good while trying to avoid the changes of African American hair after chemo. They’re heavy, and they put tension on stressed follicles. We know it’s tempting, but fight the urge to put your extensions back in too early post-treatment as your hair begins growing back again. You want to see at least 3-4 inches of good regrowth with enough density before introducing any styles that add tension. Looking for a recommendation? Loose twists or bantu knots are a safe option! How to Make African American Hair Grow After Chemo There are two pieces of advice we want to leave you with on how to make African American hair growth after chemo treatment has concluded: create the right environment for follicles to wake back up and protect whatever grows so you keep the length. Most of this is more within your control than you may think. Just be patient. Here are some tips: Start with Rennora Beauty’s ReGrowth Shampoo & Conditioner Set: No sulfates, parabens, drying alcohols, or hormone disruptors. The tandem cleanses and hydrates to keep your scalp healthy and happy. Apply a growth-stimulating serum nightly: You may even decide to go with the Extra-Strength serum from Rennora Beauty. Whatever you choose, make sure you stay consistent. We recommend either massaging or dermarolling your scalp to maximize absorption. Get the right vitamins: Either through diet or a hair growth supplement. You need vitamin D, magnesium, biotin, and a lot more. Trim split ends often: We recommend every 8-12 weeks. It can be disheartening saying goodbye to the length, but the split will only continue traveling down the hair shaft. African American hair growth after chemo isn’t an overnight thing. It’s not even a transformation you’ll see take place within a few weeks. Most experts say to give it at least 3-6 months of consistency before expecting changes. Coloring Your African American Hair After Chemo Changes to color are one of the most common complaints about African American hair after chemo, so plan on dying your hair at some point. Just not as early as you want. A lot of oncologists want their patients to wait 3-6 months before coloring their hair. The reason being, post-chemo hair growth is fragile. Permanent dyes have chemicals that can damage strands still trying to find their footing. Our advice: Start with demi-permanent or semi-permanent (these won’t break open the cortex) Steer clear of bleach and lighteners during the first year of regrowth Expect the unexpected. Your hair's texture and porosity will be different post-chemo, so colors you used before may process unpredictably Support Your Journey With the Best Hair Products For African American Chemo Patients The best hair products for African American chemo patients are right here at Rennora Beauty, where thousands of women of color have started their transformations. Just take a look at some of the countless success stories over on our site. Whether you want a serum or a more affordable Nutrafol alternative, we have what you need to overcome the changes to African American hair after chemo. Frequently asked questions What does post-chemo hair look like? Fine, soft, and usually a different texture. Most of this starts to get better within 6-12 months post-treatment. How quickly does hair fall out with chemo? A lot of women will begin losing hair within 1-3 weeks of their first infusion. Research says the average is day 18.3 Depends on the specific drug and how strong your hair is. What products help hair grow after chemo? Get all the best hair products for African American chemo patients right here at Rennora Beauty. Related Resources Weem vs Nutrafol | Hers vs Nutrafol | Kilgour MD vs Nutrafol Sources Rubio-Gonzalez B, et al. "Pathogenesis and treatment options for chemotherapy-induced alopecia: a systematic review." International Journal of Dermatology. 2018;57(12):1417-1424. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29377091/ Dilawari A, et al. "Does Scalp Cooling Have the Same Efficacy in Black Patients Receiving Chemotherapy for Breast Cancer?" The Oncologist. 2021;26(4):e553-e556. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33512741/ Watanabe T, et al. "A multicenter survey of temporal changes in chemotherapy-induced hair loss in breast cancer patients." PLoS One. 2019;14(1):e0208118. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6326423/ Loussouarn G. "African hair growth parameters." British Journal of Dermatology. 2001;145(2):294-297. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11531795/ Pleasant V, et al. "Redefining the 'crown': Approaching chemotherapy-induced alopecia among Black patients with breast cancer." Cancer. 2023;129(14):2123-2126. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/37158640/ Dunnill CJ, et al. "A Clinical and Biological Guide for Understanding Chemotherapy-Induced Alopecia and Its Prevention." The Oncologist. 2018;23(1):84-96. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28951499/